This binder acts as extra insurance to prevent broken, grainy fondue.

He didn’t turn the place into something pretentious.Instead, he took the painstakingly high standards of fine dining that he’d witnessed on his trip and applied them to every aspect of his restaurant — the suppliers, service, kitchen, and communication.

But the core remained untouched: fresh pasta made in-house, housemade ragù, the best meats and seasonal specialties, and a strong connection to the region around it..In 1998, Da Amerigo dal 1934 (Amerigo was Bettini’s grandfather) received a Michelin star.It has held it ever since.

And to this date, it’s the only authentic trattoria to claim one.That’s not because no other trattoria is worthy, but rather because Michelin keeps disregarding the genre.

Luckily, the realm of trattorias doesn’t need that sort of validation at all.

It’s doing just fine on its own.."It has such a great pillowy consistency, but it's very stable.

I can manipulate it in endless ways, folding in curd, tahini, jam-the possibilities are endless.".At the beginning of her process, Piligian whisks egg whites and sugar in a double boiler until the mixture feels smooth between her fingers.

"To me, it's easier to bake by feel," she says.After the beaten meringue is glossy and it's time to start adding the butter bit by bit, she again depends on her sense of touch.